We usually do this at Christmas time - look back at what the press had to say about Walk The Pork , Large Black Pigs and what we get up to at Scotts Field Pork. Last year however Sarah opened a new shop in December and is only just starting to draw breath......so here goes a belated look back (in no particular order) at 2014 starting with Stacia Brigg's feature in The Eastern Daily Press.
Stacia is the paper's feature writer and a huge supporter of all things foodie here in Norfolk - this is what she had to say about 'Walk The Pork'
'Yesterday Scotts Field Pork kick-started The Brecks Food and Drink Festival by holding it's annual 'Walk The Pork' event at it's farm near Oxborough, an invitation only tour of the pig paddocks for butchers, customers and food fans.
In attendance was MP Elizabeth Truss, Secretary of State for Enviroment, Food & Rural Affairs, whose constituency includes The Brecks and who has long been a supporter of the area's food producers. (She said)
'It's a fantastic success story and just one of a number of success stories in The Brecks. What I hope events like this will do is help people understand the connection between the landscape and the food they eat.'
Rob The Pigman
Saturday 1 August 2015
Saturday 13 June 2015
Rare Breeds- Use them or lose them
The last thing that we looked at at ‘Walk The Pork’ was the benefits that a rare breed animal such as The Large Black Pig can
offer commercial producers today and Rob spoke briefly about this:
‘Large Black Pigs are like all rare breed animals – you need
to use them or lose them. They are our heritage, part of our rich farming
history and so like a great cathedral should be preserved, however if there is
no commercial reason to keep them then they become like a zoo animal that is in
danger of distinction.
Fortunately The Large Black Pig has many favourable
attributes that will appeal to the small producer so we have every confidence
that they will survive.
As a sow they have a
very docile temperament, they are great mothers, they produce reasonable size
litters, milk very well and produce great pigs.
The Large Black is white skinned but black haired so they don’t
get sunburnt and as they have more fat than a commercial pig are able to cope
better with the cold in the winter. Another benefit is that they cope well with
both indoor and outdoor systems.
Finally, Large Blacks have a great conversion rate - I feed
these sows about 20% less than I would a commercial pig which brings feed costs
down and although we don’t do it this way they would probably survive on a
forage based diet as they are natural grazers.'
Thursday 23 April 2015
Walk The Pork - The RBST
It is a matter of great pride that Rob's work is recognised by The Rare Breed Survival Trust. Although we produce 'tiger pigs' which are a cross between a Large Black Sow and a Duroc Boar - finding a way of making this meat palatable for modern tastes means that we have been able to increase the national herd of Large Blacks thus helping to secure their future.
We are very privileged that The RBST Chair, Gail Sprake agreed to speak at Walk The Pork 2014.
'Thank
you for the invitation to join you this morning and for giving me the
opportunity to talk to you all. It is a privilege to be standing here,
witnessing conservation in action.
Conservation
is at the heart of what RBST stands for.
The
Rare Breeds Survival Trust is the leading national charity working to conserve
and protect the United Kingdom’s rare native breeds of farm animals from
extinction. We rely on the support of our members, the public, corporate sponsors
and grants and legacies in order to carry out the vital work we do.
RBST
was founded over 40 years ago and since then no breed of British farm livestock
has become extinct.
The
picture was not so rosy in the first 73 years of the 20th century -
breeds such as the Lincolnshire Curley Coated pig, the Small White and the
Dorset Gold Tip pig breeds, Glamorgan cattle, Limestone sheep, the Suffolk Dun
cow, all these breeds are consigned to the history books and their genetics are
lost - for ever. They cannot be re-created, and once they are gone, they are
gone. The UK has a rich and diverse heritage of native breeds across all
species, more than any other European country - we have nearly 60 livestock
breeds currently on our Watch List, and 74 native poultry breeds listed as at
risk. That makes a total of over 130 native breeds at risk from extinction.
In
1973 when the Trust was formed, the Large Black pig was immediately placed on
the Trust’s Watch List as a “critical” breed. Today, 41 years later, the breed
remains on our Watch List and numbers have increased, with approximately 200 -
300 breeding females in the national herd.
That’s
good news, but there is no room for complacency.
Our
vision is to secure the continued existence and viability of the UK’s native
farm animal genetic resources. We promote knowledge and the keeping of rare and
native breeds, we monitor breeding populations, we work alongside the
government’s Farm Animal Genetic Resources (FAnGR) committee, we support and
participate in research, and most importantly, we maintain and develop our Gene
Bank of rare native breeds. The National Gene Bank contains genetic material
from all of the rare breeds of cattle, sheep, pigs, goats and equines on the
RBST Watch List.
We
aim to educate our farmers and livestock keepers as to the benefits of rare
breeds.
We
work with partnership organisations such as Plantlife and the Wildlife Trusts,
most recently in the Coronation Meadows Project launched by HRH The Prince of Wales who is Patron of all three
organisations, to restore wildflower meadows to the British landscape to mark
the 60th Anniversary of the Coronation. RBST takes every opportunity
to emphatically reiterate that these wildlife meadows need grazing animals and
the two are intrinsically linked. It is the rich diversity of our native breeds
of farm livestock that have shaped the landscape we see today.
The Brecks is a classic
example of this - the flat, free draining, predominantly arable land provides an ideal environment for outdoor pig
production, and grazing animals. One of our rarest native sheep breeds, the
Norfolk Horn, is indigenous to this region, and when the Trust was formed in
1973 there were only 9 Norfolk Horn sheep remaining. I am pleased to say that
today the breed is in better shape and listed in Category 4, At Risk, on the
Watch List with 900-1500 breeding females. At the local Wayland Show in Watton
last month there was a line up of 14 shearling ewes in one class, testament to
the hard work and dedication of our Norfolk breeders who are passionate about
our local breed.
Passionate is the
description that is totally apt when one considers keepers and breeders of rare
breeds. But these animals are not museum pieces, they are part of our farming
way of life, and a sustainable farming future and we have to use them, or lose
them.
Sarah and Robert are a
great example to all keepers of rare breeds - they have taken one of our oldest
pig breeds, risen to the challenge of sustainable farming, and guaranteed a
future for this breed by using it. They have successfully educated the market
to the superior eating qualities of our traditional native breeds.
I’d like to conclude by
sharing one final thought with you - the media reported last week on comments
made by the US Ambassador to Britain, Matthew Barzun, when asked by Tatler to
describe his ideal dinner party dish. He responded by saying “I’ll tell you
what I would not serve - lamb and potatoes. I must have had lamb and potatoes
180 times since I have been here. There are limits and I have reached them”. I
would have to say to Mr Barzun that it could not have been native breed lamb,
thoughtfully reared, knowledgeably produced and carefully prepared.
Whether it is pork, beef,
lamb or mutton, the flavour, taste and eating quality of our native breeds is
beyond compare. As livestock keepers, we have to share the passion demonstrated
by Sarah, Robert and their family; we have to eat them to keep them, or, use
them or lose them.
Friday 10 April 2015
Walk The Pork - The Chef
In 2014 we were privileged to be nominated for The Field to
Fork Norfolk Food & Drink Award. One of our fellow nominees was Scott
Taylor – Head Chef at The Elveden Estate
and a customer of Scotts Field Pork .The Elveden Estate is not only the largest
in house farm in the country but it is also the gateway into The Brecks. We
were delighted when Scott agreed to talk at Walk The Pork about his role on the
estate as well as the estate’s policy for sourcing food in it’s restaurant.
‘ The Elveden Estate is 22,500 acres of Breckland of which
only about 10,000 acres is used for arable farming, most of the rest is managed
as part of various conservation projects. This means that The Elveden Estate Restaurant
is part of a a very large scale operation. One in six Ryvitas comes from this
farm in The Brecks as well as 6% of the
UK’s onions.
When I first arrived
at Elveden I found it quite difficult
to use estate produce in our restaurant. This is because our farmers usually
deal with a minimum order of 16 tonnes of onions for example, so finding a 10 kilo
bag for me was a real pain. To their credit they have bent over backwards to
try and accommodate me and this is because Lord Iveagh’s passion to use the produce
that is around us here in The Brecklands is shared by everyone who works on the
estate. If it is not supplied directly
by the estate it comes from small scale producers nearby, so we buy Red Poll
beef from a gentleman that is a tenant on the farm and we use Jacob lambs from
another.
We buy our honey from someone on the estate that has his own
hives – last year we bought 600lbs of Elveden Honey to be used in The Estate
Restaurant as well as The Elveden Inn. It is also the reason we like to support
Scotts Field Pork which is a brilliant
product as the pork has a fantastic flavour. We could use commercial pork but
that is not what we are about – it is important to us that we support small
farms in The Brecks.
One of the things that we make from Scotts Field Pork is The
Brecks Salami which is made from beef fat from the red polls mixed with the
pork to make a fantastic product that is then sold to our customers. The idea of the Elveden farm shop &
restaurant is to be part of The Brecks food web. As a relatively large
organisation we are able to buy quite a lot from the small producers that
surround us enabling them to increase their business and employ more staff. We in
turn provide employment locally and so the hopefully a large proportion of the
money that is made in The Brecks by visitors spending at the estate shops stays
in the area.
This philosophy has been developed further by the estate
helping local small holders to increase their businesses by for example purchasing
a flock of sheep which the small holder then buys back with a loan arrangement.
Here inThe Brecks we have a unique landscape. You can see this as you drive past the fields,the honeycombing of
sand, the soil, chalk and flint.
The productivity here is a credit to everyone that works on the land which is not
the easiest on which to grow. When you go up Lincolnshire way and see that lovely
dark peat soil it amazing to consider that we get anything out of ‘The Broken Land’.
It is however our unique heathland that gives rise to a habitat for plants which are not found anywhere else on this planet and this must give our animals which graze it a unique flavouring that wont be found elsewhere.
It is our relationship with our producers that creates
interest with our customers. Like Vanessa I am on first name terms with them
all and it is this that gives us a unique understanding of how the food has arrived
in our kitchens.
In short we are an example of a large farm working with lots
of small farms and I think this is the way the future lies to ensure the continued
success of us all.'
Saturday 4 April 2015
Walk The Pork - The Food Web
The story of a food web in The Brecks
We were joined on Walk The Pork by Vanessa Scott from Strattons,
Scott Taylor of The Elveden Estate, Tony Potter of Impsons Butchers and William
Gribbon from Heygates Farms, businesses both large and small - all of whom in
some way contribute to ‘TheBrecks sausage Roll’ which is symbolic of the successful
food web that we are involved with here in The Brecks. With less than 100 food
miles being involved in it’s production it contributes towards the success of
several family businesses who in turn create employment for others.
Vanessa Scott -
Strattons
Can I start you off with a thought , one which is part of
The CPRE report and was voiced by Monty
Don. ‘Mapping Local Food is a powerful
way to form our own connections to the land, landscape & nature. It’s a
chance to enjoy seasonal produce, to discover the best, most wholesome and
freshest food around us and the most distinctive varieties and taste. It is our
chance to support a food network that is rich with variety and diversity and
meaning. It’s our chance and we need to seize it’.
Now if you just hold that point I want to talk to you about
something that happened to me about five or six years ago. I was in a ‘gastro’
pub on the outskirts of Norwich and the owner was determined to bend my ear
about local produce. He knew that along with Richard Hughes of The Lavender
House I spend a lot of time talking about sourcing food locally and was keen to
point out that I had got it all wrong. At
the time he had a chain of hotels in small market towns and his philosophy was
to buy it in and bang it out cheaply. He was very proud of the fact that he was
a guest of honour at a dinner in London held by a national low cost catering
wholesaler as that was where is was buying all his produce from.
Now I will skip ahead to what we do here in The Brecks. The
Brecks Sausage Roll was my introduction to The Black Pig. The initial
introduction came from Liz Truss our local MP who introduced me to Rob at
Scotts Field Pork and it was through him that I met Tony of Impsons who is our
local butcher in Swaffham. A butchers staffed by people with proper skills,
they can talk about the meat and the cuts and tell you how to use the different
products that they sell – so if you read about something in a recipe book they
will happily present you with the cut you require for it.
The Brecks Sausage Roll which we produce in the cafe at
Strattons is made half and half from Scotts Field Pork as well as Heygates
potatoes and root vegetables from The Elveden Estate which people always find surprising
as they think it is such a ‘meaty’ sausage roll.
It is projects like this that keep me interested in running
our hotel, meeting the producers that come to the back door with their amazing
produce and stories.
A little footnote to my story.
The man all those
years ago who was selling breakfasts at £2 a head is no longer (strangely
enough) doing that . Our business goes from strength to strength and it is
because of items like our sausage roll which is a premium product (as they
retail at £2.75). This might be considered to be expensive, but it is because we have picked the best ingredients we can . We have picked
individual items that come from this area, that aren’t available elsewhere and
which not only tell the story of the unique landscape of The Brecks but gives
all our guests a unique visitor experience. It is a unique selling point which
we should never underestimate.
Tony Potter of Impsons
Our involvement with this food web is through the Black Pig which
we take from Scotts Field Pork and sell not only to hotels in the area but in
the shop as well. We add value by producing a dry cure bacon which more and
more people are asking for as they are tired of the froth producing stuff they
buy from a supermarket. We also produce a sausage – The Brecks Banger which
goes into The Brecks Sausage Roll.
In our shop we probably have about 300 years worth of
combined experience. A local Tescos
opened recently and the butchers there have hours rather than years of experience,
something which the public need to know & understand if The British Butcher
is not to continue to be a dying breed. As with all rare breeds you need to use
us or lose us!
William Gribbon –
Heygates Farms
At Heygates we farm about 6000 acres in around Swaffham on
The Brecks light, sandy soil. We predominately grow potatoes and have created a
brand called The Norfolk Peer. This is a high quality new potato that is sold
in supermarkets , markets like Covent Garden & national wholesalers as well
as more local ones in Norfolk. With The Norfolk Peer we have created a brand
out of a commodity and are proud that here in Norfolk we are producing something
of real quality. It is this potato as well has flour from our mills that goes
into the production of The Brecks Sausage Roll.
Friday 20 March 2015
Walk The Pork - The Farmer
I started the business in 2004 with two in pig Large Black gilts
from a prison farm near Boston which we put in a field at the bottom of the
garden in Scotts Lane – hence the name Scotts Field Pork. We expanded to six sows
and a boar and moved to this farm in Oxborough in 2005. We continued to breed
the pigs pure but found that although the taste & tenderness of the meat
was most appreciated it was a little too fat for modern tastes. We decided to
cross The Large Black with a commercial boar and after a series of experiments
found that the Duroc Boar worked best by reducing back fat levels whilst
maintaining intramuscular fat and improving confirmation. This made the meat we
produce more appealing to our butchers and their customers and we have been
able to expand the herd to about a hundred sows – seventy of them pure bred
Large Blacks and about thirty Large Black cross Welsh sows using the Duroc as a
terminal sire.
We originally chose The Large Black Pig as it used to be the
commercial pig of choice for East Anglian farmers indeed my maternal grandfather
had a herd of Large Black Pigs as did my paternal great grandfather who kept
them in his Orchard at Blakeney so there is a strong family connection.
We also felt there was an opportunity to help a rare breed
by trying to create a viable business based on the breed’s favourable eating
qualities and it’s ability to thrive outdoors. This would give our butcher
customers a product not available in the supermarkets and thus enable them to
grow their pork sales.
In summary the business has four main aims. One is to
provide an income for us as a family & hopefully a full time member of
staff. The second is to increase the fertility of this Breckland soil on the
host farm, the third is to promote the Large Black Pig and encourage others to
do a similar thing with another rare breed. The fourth is to give our butcher
customers a branded product to help to increase their sales within the local
community
Wednesday 22 October 2014
Walk The Pork - The Minister
This year we held ‘Walk The Pork’ as part of The Brecks Food
Festival – a three day event that takes place as part of the wider Norfolk Food
Festival over the third weekend in September. It is an opportunity for everyone
in The Becks to showcase their skills from ‘farm to fork’ and is supported by many local businesses including The
Elveden Estate & Heygates Farms.
We were delighted to welcome The Right Hon Elizabeth Truss
who as well as being Secretary of State
for The Environment, Food & Rural
Affairs is also our local M.P. Liz has taken a keen interest in The Brecks Food
Festival since she was elected in 2010, recognising its significance in
promoting both food & tourism in the local economy.
She kindly agreed to speak at Walk The Pork as the opening
event of The 2014 Brecks Food Festival.
‘It is fantastic to be here again at Walk The Pork. I
remember the first year that I was invited along. It was an incredibly hot day
and I was amazed to walk into a field and find as well as some black pigs the
most fantastic pork and bacon products on offer.
The pigs that you have here are a very rare breed producing
a fatter meat which is I believe is coming back into fashion as tastes change -
they certainly produce fantastic meat. Since that first walk I have seen The
Black Pig being sold in many local shops, cafes and restaurants. Yours is a
great success story and is part of the wider success story of The Brecks. We have The Brecks Food Festival that Vanessa Scott
of Strattons Hotel has been so instrumental in making happen to showcase other
great Brecks produce such as The Norfolk Peer potato which anyone can now buy
in their local supermarket. In season we
also have fantastic asparagus produced in the Brecks. I think that what the festival
is doing is helping people understand the connection with the landscape, it is
a incredibly unusual landscape with amazing bio-diversity which co-exists with
really fantastic products that people want to enjoy and eat.
I am pretty obsessed with local food. It’s a great movement
which is helping people connect with the environment and nature as well as our
history. It is great that the festival
is going from strength to strength. It is good for tourism and raising the
profile of The Brecks.
As DEFRA Minister I am very open to ideas about what we can
do to promote sustainable agriculture, to make sure in Britain we are eating our indigenous
food, our fabulous local food as well as getting the opportunity to export as
well.’
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